As we write, seed catalogs are arriving, each with appealing pictures of fat red tomatoes, lush leafy oriental greens and lettuces. There are broccolis with green heads and purple heads, carrots with purple skins and startling bright orange interiors. The squashes come in an assortment of sizes and shapes. They are tan and orange, mottled green, gray-green, lumpy and smooth, spotted and striped. All are tasty looking. Which ones shall we choose?

Because we want wholesome and healthy food, we choose not to purchase seeds or plants that have been subjected to mechanical genetic manipulation. The first thing we look for in each arriving catalog is the company’s declaration of adherence to the safe seed pledge, which states:

“Agriculture and seeds provide the basis upon which our lives depend. We must protect this foundation as a safe and genetically stable source for future generations. For the benefit of all farmers, gardeners and consumers who want an alternative, we pledge that we do not knowingly buy or sell genetically engineered seeds or plants.

The mechanical transfer of genetic material outside of natural reproductive methods and between genera, families or kingdoms poses great biological risks as well as economic, political and cultural threats. We feel that genetically engineered varieties have been insufficiently tested prior to public release. More research and testing is necessary to further assess the potential risks of genetically engineered seeds. Further we wish to support agricultural progress that leads to healthier soils, genetically diverse agricultural eco-systems and, ultimately, people and communities.”

If we cannot find the pledge, or if the company does not endorse it fully, we put that catalog in our paper recycling bin and move on to the next one. If we are feeling particularly energetic, we write the company a little note explaining why we are not ordering from them. After all, if they don’t know what the problem is, how can they correct it?

As home gardeners, we don’t have to worry about all the broccoli maturing at the same time for efficient harvesting. Nor are we worried about how well our vegetables will stand up during shipping. You must have seen those things that look exactly like tomatoes only when dropped, they don’t splatter, they bounce. We understand they ship extremely well.

We are interested in flavor rather than “bouncability” and whether the veggies will be happy growing in our somewhat harsh, zone 5 mini-climate.

We also think small is indeed beautiful. We like to support family businesses, cooperatively run companies and companies that have a knowledgeable, customer-friendly approach to doing business.

We like trying unusual varieties and heirloom veggies, so each year we engage in a few experiments. Over time we’ve discovered some really good plants this way.

Our favorite cucumber is called a mini white cuke, and it is. This little veggie is ready to eat when it is just a few inches long, two or three at the most. The flavor is fresh and bright, never bitter. It grows well under both good and bad conditions and produces cucumbers with enthusiastic vigor all summer.

Fairy Tale eggplant is another good variety. It is suitable for growing in containers and produces multiple tasty little lavender streaked fruits that are perfect for stir-frying or roasting kabob style. In our part of the world eggplants can be difficult because of our short and often cool growing season. We put our pots of Fairy Tale on a second story deck against the southwest side of the house where it gets very warm. They thrive there well into September. The plants are bushy and full with attractive lavender flowers. The fruits, each only a couple of inches long, are delectable.

Jimmy Nardello’s sweet Italian frying pepper is another favorite. The seeds were brought to this country by the Nardello family and now are carried by a number of commercial seed companies. Nardellos are pretty tough plants and produce well without pampering. The fruits are long and thin, turning from green to red when fully ripe. They can be eaten at either stage and are tasty both raw and fried.

But we have gotten way ahead of ourselves. Before the seeds comes the soil. The foundation of a good garden starts at ground level with healthy soil. Soil is composed of old rock, which has broken down over millions of years, decomposed organic matter and space. The space provides room for air and water. These three combine in varying proportions depending upon previous conditions in specific locations.

The ideal soil for most plants is loose and granular with ample organic content. To safeguard the structure of our soil, it is important to stay out of the garden when the ground is wet, to avoid over-working it by excessive tilling and, many would say, to avoid excessive walking in the garden at any time as our weight compacts the ground, eliminating those important air spaces. The walking problem can be solved by using raised beds or by putting down walking boards along our garden paths. These will distribute our weight over a greater area and are, if not a perfect solution, at least helpful.

There are three major ingredients in fertile soil: nitrogen, which encourages leafy growth; phosphorus, which plants use to form flowers, fruit and seeds, and potassium which encourages healthy root systems and disease resistance. There are organic sources for each of these and a professional soil test will reveal which are needed. It is important to ask for organic remediation solutions when sending in samples for testing.

We also want to know how available nutrients are to our plants. Most essential nutrients form water-soluble compounds when the soil ranges somewhere between slightly acidic and neutral. We measure this by the pH scale, which goes from 1 to 14, with 1 being most acidic, 7 being neutral and 14 being most alkaline. Each incremental increase represents a 10-fold change. In Maine, it is almost certain that our soil will be on the acid side. The usual way to raise pH level is to add lime to the garden. Avoid slaked or hydrated lime, as both can raise levels too quickly and can harm plant roots and organisms in the soil.

Now let’s consider the organic material in our soil. This magical stuff is made of decayed and disintegrating plants and may also include manure. Nature creates this wonderful growing medium slowly. In our four-season climate, autumn leaves fall and other plants die. Slowly over the years all this vegetation piles up and decays, aided by rain and snow and a multitude of organisms, most of which are too small to see.

We can speed up the whole process by building compost piles, layering green and brown plant material with a little soil, possibly a little manure, and making sure our piles are not soggy, but moist enough to encourage the decaying process. After a year or so, presto, we have black gold.

Compost conditions sandy soils and lightens up clay. It can absorb its own weight in water, storing it for when the plants need moisture. It contains both nutrients and sufficient necessary spaces. Properly made, it does not smell offensive and it does not attract animals. What it does do is encourage robust and healthy plant growth. Properly made and distributed, compost allows us to garden indefinitely in the same place while actually increasing the depth and fertility of our soil. When we consider that according to a United Nations study, US farming the agri-business way depletes topsoil at a rate of 6 pounds of soil for every pound of produce grown, we realize the importance of farming and gardening in this sustainable way.

Growing our own food can be empowering no matter what size our gardens are. Nurturing our special piece of the Earth is an immensely rewarding and significant act of good stewardship as each individual gardener does her or his part to maintain a healthy planet.

And there is nothing that compares with the flavor of veggies fresh from the garden, absolutely nothing!

© Pat Foley, 2010